The Greenhouse - Construction
Building an Economical Greenhouse.
March 01 2012
Now for a little greenhouse history. I first planted some garden here in late spring 2008, which is late for me but I had been busy remodeling the house in time to move in at the end of my apartment lease at the end of May 2008. This was enough to hold me for a year or two while I was busy with the house, but I soon began to tinker more with some solar projects. In 2010 I built a lean-to greenhouse on the south face of the detached garage which I planned to use to start a few garden plants, and grow some greens throughout the winter.This greenhouse consisted of a 4' x 20' planter bed about 2' high, with an inner walkway about 12' long and 18" wide accessed off of the garage. The main glazing for this was double pane glass salvaged out of three patio doors.
The First Greenhouse |
Installed frost wall |
The second improvement was a sidewall, which allows working close to the edge of the greenhouse much more comfortable. This was constructed using 1 1/2" steel pipe fence posts driven vertically through the frost wall and about 2' deep below the wall. The post also was left about 2' above the frost wall, and trimmed to level. The posts were capped with treated 2" thick lumber. In order to match the height of the existing greenhouse wall I cut a piece of 4" x 4" post to notch over the top of the sidewall. The top of this piece was cut at an angle which I pre-calculated, and drilled for the 1" PVC hoops. where the hoop met
the existing greenhose a shim was cut, and a 1" PVC anchor fitting attached as shown. The plastic sheeting was attached to a horizontal steel pipe attached to the original greenhouse with single end conduit clips, and PVC snap clamps. This was how the main plastic sheeting is attached in general.
Next the hoops were erected using the PVC fittings shown below. These are available from several greenhouse suppliers. The hoops are of standard 1" PVC electricsal conduit. It is important to use electrical conduit as it is UV stabilized (non UV stabile plastic will become brittle after about a year) for this. I also used a 5 way fitting every other hoop which will allow a vertical support pipe in case of a heavy wet snow. This was done as I was using a lower (flatter) hoop than a true arch in order to minimize the profile of the hoophouse. Doing this made the hoophouse about 3' shorter (it is till 8 1/2' high) than it would have been with a true arch, but makes the span less strong.
West End |
Next the end walls were framed up.
East End with access door |
And painted. Luckily for me a warm late January allowed me to paint. Normally this would not be possible on the frozen tundra in January, and February.
An inside view, note the "compost pile" at the bottom center. I am preparing to affix a 1" steel pipe to reinforce the ridgeline, and carry the stress if a heavy snow load were to be on the structure. Also note the yard bags of leaves in the rear right which will be added to the compost pile. I am planning a compost pile which should add some marginal heat to the hoophouse in late winter, and also contribute extra carbon Dioxide to encourage plant growth.
A view from the Southeast. |
The same view after the plastic sheeting has been affixed. |
The East end with Plastic. |
The West end with plastic |
A nice close-up of the compost pile |
Wow, pretty impressive. I didn't even know your yard had room for that. Maybe I can make it up there this summer to check it out.
ReplyDeleteIt is in the garden, of which it covers about 2/3. The dimensions are 15' wide by 40' long.
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